Archive for the ‘Batteries’ Category

Crestliner Wiring Upgrade

March 26th, 2013 by Kevin Hannula

Kevin,

Could you please check out my homemade boat wiring diagram? It’s for my 17.5′ Crestliner Fish Hawk.

As you can see, I added and wired the two Attwood battery selector switches and a fourth battery to the system (Battery 2) and wired all the batteries in parallel. I also added the Blue Seas fuse block, all lighting, fishfinder, trolling motor, etc.

Crestliner boat wiring diagram

Click to Enlarge

My goal here is to be able to run the trolling motor off the extra battery if needed and/or to be able to start the motor with the extra battery if the main died. Also, to run all the lights off the extra battery for night fishing. I’ve yet to turn both switches to “both” because I’m not sure if that would be bad for……..everything.

I’m obviously an amateur at this so was wondering if you think it’s a safe setup assuming all the fuses, connections, wire gauge, etc. are kosher? I haven’t had any trouble yet but I’m a little nervous about burning something up.

I’d really appreciate your input if you can decipher the wiring diagram.

Thanks,

S.D.

Hi,

I would make a couple of minor changes:

  • Move the trolling motor circuit protection to the trolling motor side of the switch.
  • Add circuit protection for the Blue Seas fuse panel at its connection location to the boat battery switch.
  • Use the same size boat battery cables for all of your battery link wires. You call out 4/0 for the positive lead (I would assume you mean 4 AWG) but not on any of the other cables.
  • If the trolling motor batteries are near the bow of the boat I would consider adding circuit protection at each end of this wire to help reduce the risk of a catastrophic fault.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Kevin,

Thanks for the help Kevin. I’ll do all of that.

Also, I was wrong about the battery cable being 4/0, its actually 1/0 welding cable.
Thanks again,

S.D.

Hi,

Most people don’t use welding cable on boats or cars because it is not oil resistant.

Kevin

Posted in Batteries, Battery Management, Bilge Pump, Boat Battery Switches, Boat Battery Wiring, Boat Wiring, Bus Bar, Circuit Protection, Corrosion, Marine Electrical, Marine Wiring, Navigation Lights, Power Boats, Trolling Motors, Wire Size | Comments Off

Kayak Power

February 20th, 2013 by Kevin Hannula

Hey Kevin,Motorguide trolling motor

Your site is amazing. Thanks for all the info.

Now here is my boat wiring question:

We have a Native 14.5 ft Kayak. It only weighs 75 pounds and wish to power it with a 12 volt Motorguide trolling motor on some of the quieter lakes for fishing.

What are the battery options? Will a 24 volt with 93 amp hours work? And for how long? From reading your posts I learned we need a better charger than the 25 year old trickle charger we have, any gems you recommend?

Thanks again.

Hi,

Most of the time, you don’t want to discharge a boat battery below 50%, so you are only going to use 46 of the 93 amp hours available in the battery. The small, 30 lb thrust trolling motors draw about 30 amps at full power. At wide open, you can expect the battery to last about 1.5 hours. A 5 amp charger would take about 9 hours to recharge the battery after use.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Posted in Batteries, Battery Chargers, Battery Management, Boat Battery Wiring, Trolling Motors | Comments Off

Bigger Better?

September 20th, 2012 by Kevin Hannula

Dear Kevin,

I have a Marinco 12-24/24-36 plug and receptacle installed on my boat for my trolling motor.

I have switched from a 24 volt system to a 36 volt system and noted that two of the four prongs on the male plug are larger than the other two. Marinco trolling motor plug

The trolling motor uses two wires (black and red) for power from the batteries. Should these wires be installed on the two larger prongs, since the 36 volt system will be drawing more current than the 24 volt system. The prongs are labled A+, B+, neg, and NET on the back of the plug.

Thank you for your time.

Arthur

Hi Arthur,

I would use the larger terminals in the plug for your new trolling motor. They have more contact area and will be less likely to get hot during heavy operation.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Thanks Kevin.

That was my thoughts. Nice to have your take.

Arthur

Posted in Batteries, Battery Management, Boat Battery Wiring, Boat Wiring, Jon Boats, Marine Electric, Marine Electrical, Marine Wiring, Panel Rewire, Pontoons, Power Boats, Trolling Motors, Voltage Drop | Comments Off

Trim Trouble

August 20th, 2012 by Kevin Hannula

Hi Kevin,

I have a boat which is a center console.

When I give the boat’s engine direct power, it starts and the tilt trim works. But, when I connect the battery to the terminals, it’s no good – it won’t even crank over nor will the tilt trim work.

I have tested the isolator switch with a multimeter and it seemed to be fine.

What else do you think I should do?Marine electrical trim panel

Thanks mate,

Ozzy

Hi Ozzy,

Test the switch and cables with the engine connected while you are trying to start it.

It is very common for cables and switches to read fine with a meter, but as soon as you draw current down them, there is too much resistance in the wire/switch and the engine will not start.

Since the meter draws a very small current, it not cause the huge voltage drop problem that you are seeing.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Hi Kevin

So do you think I should buy and try a new isolator switch?

Thanks

Ozzy,

I would test the voltage at the battery switch when you are trying to start the engine. It may be the boat battery cables.

Kevin

Posted in Batteries, Battery Management, Boat Battery Switches, Boat Battery Wiring, Boat Wiring, Marine Battery Switch, Marine Electrical, Marine Wiring, Testing, Trim, Voltage Drop, Voltmeter | Comments Off

Bow to Stern?

July 30th, 2012 by Kevin Hannula

Kevin:

I need some advice on the best battery configuration for my boat.

I have a 19 foot Blue Wave fishing boat with a Yamaha 115 and a 24-volt trolling motor. Currently, I have two dedicated trolling batteries mounted in front; cranking and all other accessories are handled by a single battery mounted in back. I also have an onboard marine battery charger mounted in front for the trolling batteries.Blue Wave 190

This setup works just fine, but I don’t like having the two trolling batteries and the charger in the front (space and weight distribution considerations). There is room for all three batteries in the back with a few minor adjustments.

So here are my questions:

  1. If I mount all three batteries in back, is it possible to set it up so that all three can charge from the alternator? And should I keep the configuration of two batteries for trolling and one for everything else, or do something different?
  2. Is there a simple and reliable way to do this with just two batteries?

Thanks

Jeff

Hi Jeff,

Moving the weight aft may not be the best solution. The additional 100+ pounds may cause the boat to be slower on plane and to porpoise at top speed. I would test the weight in the aft before making any wiring changes.

There are devices like the Guest/Marinco Charge PRO plus that allow the engine alternator to charge the 24v system while underway and charge all three while plugged in.

It is common to condense your marine electrical system down to two batteries.

  • Battery 1 is for the engine and all other 12v systems.
  • Battery 2 is connected in series with battery 1 (+ of 1 to – of 2) and the trolling motor 24v connection is made by connecting the negative to to Battery 1 (engine battery) and the positive to Battery 2.
  • You would be able to use your existing battery charge to charge both batteries, but the engine would only charge the starting battery while underway.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Posted in Batteries, Battery Chargers, Battery Management, Boat Battery Switches, Boat Battery Wiring, Boat Wiring, Marine Battery Switch, Marine Electric, Marine Electrical, Marine Wiring, Trolling Motors | Comments Off

Conversion Aversion

June 25th, 2012 by Kevin Hannula

Kevin,

My fishing boat wiring question concerns using an inverter to charge trolling motor batteries.

Can I plug my Guest Model 2611 battery charger into an inverter capable of producing at least 10 amps if the inverter is connected to the main motor (1994 Mercury 125 HP Optimax outboard) starting battery only while the main motor is running? Guest marine electrical battery charger

Thank you.

Don

Hi Don,

This will work.

It is not the most efficient way to charge your boat’s trolling motor batteries while underway, but it is the most cost effective.

Kevin

Kevin,

Thank you.

I am open to considering any other “more efficient” suggestions from you.

Please share your ideas.

Don

Hi Don,

There are chargers like this one from Marinco that will charge all three batteries along with charging on the fly.

When charging the marine electrical system using the engine alternator, the DC charge is not converted to AC and then back to DC.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Posted in Batteries, Battery Chargers, Battery Management, Boat Battery Wiring, Boat Wiring, Jon Boats, Marine Electrical, Marine Wiring, Pontoons, Power Boats, Trolling Motors | Comments Off

Switched Solar?

June 11th, 2012 by Kevin Hannula

Kevin,

My marine electrical includes an Automatic Smart Battery Switch and was wondering how to install a trickle solar charger to it.

Should I bypass the switch, or should it be installed just like a Guest battery charger to the “house” battery? If so, do I still need a charge controller, and where should it be located (between battery and panel, or battery and smart battery switch)?solar panel

Thanks for all of your help.

Greg

Hi Greg,

In my opinion, the best location to connect a solar charger is to the house battery, but at the battery switch end of the boat battery cables.

Connect the positive lead of the charger to the battery switch stud with red cable from your house battery and connect the negative lead of the charger to the ground bus. Connecting the charger to the switch will help reduce the amount of clutter on the battery.

If you want the solar charger to charge the starting battery also, turn the switch to either ON (VSR will control the charge) or COMBINE (batteries are mechanically paralleled with the switch).

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Posted in Batteries, Battery Chargers, Battery Management, Boat Battery Switches, Boat Battery Wiring, Boat Wire, Boat Wiring, Marine Battery Switch, Marine Electric, Marine Electrical, Marine Wiring, Solar Power | Comments Off

Same Old. Same Old.

June 4th, 2012 by Kevin Hannula

Kevin,

I have a quick boat wiring question.

When replacing old tired boat batteries, is it imperative to replace both batteries at the same time with identical batteries?Optima battery

Thanks,

Steve

Hi Steve,

It is not, but if you are only replacing only one of your boat batteries, make sure it is the same type of battery.

I don’t recommend mixing a gel cell with a lead acid if they are connected with a marine battery switch. Their charging characteristics are different and neither will charge correctly if connected together.

Hope that this helps.

Kevin

Posted in Batteries, Battery Chargers, Battery Management, Boat Battery Switches, Boat Battery Wiring, Marine Battery Switch, Marine Electrical, Marine Wiring, Power Boats | Comments Off

Close Call. Go Small.

May 29th, 2012 by Kevin Hannula

Kevin,

I have a 12 volt 55 pound thrust trolling motor on my boat’s marine electrical system.

What gauge of boat wiring is recommended to run 25 feet of wire from the motor to the boat battery?

Thanks,Chalkboard math

Keith

Hi Kurt,

Your boat’s trolling motor will draw 15-20 amps.

To maintain a 3% or less voltage drop at 20 amps and a 50 foot total run, you would need to run 4 AWG marine wiring. If you run 6 AWG, your voltage drop will be 4% or less and the wire will weigh and cost 2/3 as much as the 4 AWG. It is common practice to run 6 AWG with your application.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Posted in Batteries, Battery Management, Boat Battery Wiring, Boat Wire, Boat Wiring, Jon Boats, Marine Electrical, Marine Wire, Marine Wiring, Power Boats, Trolling Motors, Voltage Drop, Wire Size | Comments Off

Bow battery? Stern Switch?

May 15th, 2012 by Kevin Hannula

Hi Kevin,

I want to add a second battery at the front of my 18 foot pontoon boat to run a trolling motor that will mounted on the front.

I would like the main motor, a 70 hp Evinrude, to charge the trolling motor battery. Battery switch

What gauge of tinned marine wire would you suggest? I assume stranded wire would be best.

Thanks.

Artie

Hi Artie,

If you want your 70 hp Evinrude to charge both batteries, it may be easier put the second battery at the stern of the boat and connect them together with a boat battery switch system, which you can find our on sister marine electrical site.

This will allow you to select which battery the engine is starting from and also help prevent a dead battery after too much trolling motor use.

Run the trolling motor leads to the rear of the boat and use circuit protection as close as possible to the battery for the trolling motor.

The cables that connect the batteries are short and there is no requirement to have circuit protection on them since that can be used as part of the starting circuit.

Never use the frame of the boat as the path to ground. It will cause SEVERE galvanic corrosion.

Good luck,

kevin

Posted in Batteries, Battery Management, Boat Battery Switches, Boat Battery Wiring, Boat Wiring, Corrosion, Galvanic Corrosion, Ground issues, Marine Electric, Marine Electrical, Marine Wire, Marine Wiring, Outboard Engines, Pontoons, Power Boats, Trolling Motors, Wire Size | Comments Off
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