Archive for the ‘Boat Wiring’ Category

Crestliner Wiring Upgrade

March 26th, 2013 by Kevin Hannula

Kevin,

Could you please check out my homemade boat wiring diagram? It’s for my 17.5′ Crestliner Fish Hawk.

As you can see, I added and wired the two Attwood battery selector switches and a fourth battery to the system (Battery 2) and wired all the batteries in parallel. I also added the Blue Seas fuse block, all lighting, fishfinder, trolling motor, etc.

Crestliner boat wiring diagram

Click to Enlarge

My goal here is to be able to run the trolling motor off the extra battery if needed and/or to be able to start the motor with the extra battery if the main died. Also, to run all the lights off the extra battery for night fishing. I’ve yet to turn both switches to “both” because I’m not sure if that would be bad for……..everything.

I’m obviously an amateur at this so was wondering if you think it’s a safe setup assuming all the fuses, connections, wire gauge, etc. are kosher? I haven’t had any trouble yet but I’m a little nervous about burning something up.

I’d really appreciate your input if you can decipher the wiring diagram.

Thanks,

S.D.

Hi,

I would make a couple of minor changes:

  • Move the trolling motor circuit protection to the trolling motor side of the switch.
  • Add circuit protection for the Blue Seas fuse panel at its connection location to the boat battery switch.
  • Use the same size boat battery cables for all of your battery link wires. You call out 4/0 for the positive lead (I would assume you mean 4 AWG) but not on any of the other cables.
  • If the trolling motor batteries are near the bow of the boat I would consider adding circuit protection at each end of this wire to help reduce the risk of a catastrophic fault.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Kevin,

Thanks for the help Kevin. I’ll do all of that.

Also, I was wrong about the battery cable being 4/0, its actually 1/0 welding cable.
Thanks again,

S.D.

Hi,

Most people don’t use welding cable on boats or cars because it is not oil resistant.

Kevin

Posted in Batteries, Battery Management, Bilge Pump, Boat Battery Switches, Boat Battery Wiring, Boat Wiring, Bus Bar, Circuit Protection, Corrosion, Marine Electrical, Marine Wiring, Navigation Lights, Power Boats, Trolling Motors, Wire Size | Comments Off

Engine Harness Search

February 20th, 2013 by Kevin Hannula

boat wiring

Kevin,

Could you please tell me the best place to find an oddball boat wiring harness? I need one that will fit a Johnson 75elr78c engine from the red plug in the ignition switch?

Thank you for your help.

Hi Bill,

I’m sorry, but neither of our wiring sites have anything like this. If it were me, I would try ebasicpower.com.

Good luck,

Kevin

Posted in Boat Wiring, Engine Harness, Ignition Switch, Marine Electrical, Marine Wiring | Comments Off

Stereo Works. Boat Doesn’t.

December 26th, 2012 by Kevin Hannula

Kevin,

I recently bought a 16 foot Smokercraft fishing boat with a 60 hp Mercury EFI 4 stroke engine. I also bought a stereo unit for the boat and was hooking it up and now I have 3 problems.

  • No power tilt and trim
  • No turn over of the engine with the key start
  • No power to my fish/depth finder.

    • JBL Marine Speaker

I have checked the fuses. Both the one of the engine as well as the one on the fish finder.

I ordered a key switch unit and a 20 amp circuit breaker. If this does not fix the problem—do you have any suggestions of where I should look next?

All of the above worked before the stereo hook-up in which I connected the power cable to the ignition.

Thanks for your help!

Leroy

Hi Leroy,

There must be a blown fuse somewhere on your boat. Is there an in-line fuse at the key or an ignition fuse on the fuse panel?

I would use a meter or test light to look for 12 volt power at the key switch and make your way back to the engine.

I don’t believe a new key switch is going to solve the problem.

Let me know,

Kevin

Posted in Boat Wiring, Ignition Switch, Marine Electrical, Power Boats, Radio | Comments Off

Light Switched

November 21st, 2012 by Kevin Hannula

Kevin,

My boat’s navigation light switch is spliced into the negative wire.

Is this acceptable or should the switch be rewired into the positive wire. The positive wire is fused with a 2 amp fuse. Bow light

Your help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Hi,

Although it is not a common practice, there is nothing really wrong with switching the negative lead instead of the positive lead.

The best practice is: source of power, circuit protection within 7 inches of power supply, switch, device, ground.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Posted in Boat Lighting, Boat Wiring, Ground issues, Navigation Lights, Testing | Comments Off

Static Stopper

October 31st, 2012 by Kevin Hannula

Hi Kevin,Zinc anode

When storing a small vessel on a trailer for the winter, is it advisable to connect a ground clamp to ship’s ground, ie, the zinc on the outboard?

Regards,

Robert

HI Robert,

There is no reason to unless you are doing something on-board that may produce a large static buildup such as running a vacuum cleaner.

Enjoy your winter,

Kevin

Posted in Boat Trailers, Boat Wiring, Ground issues, Marine Electrical | Comments Off

Whaler Wiring

October 17th, 2012 by Kevin Hannula

Boston Whaler 13If you have one of the old, smaller Boston Whalers – and need a little guidance as to the boat wiring – Continuous Wave has posted a helpful overview of the wiring on these classic boats.

If you need more in-depth info, be sure to check out this more comprehensive guide to all things Whaler on the same site.

Both postings are really well done and should be a great resource for our readers.

Posted in Boat Wiring, Navigation Lights | Comments Off

Nitro Navigation

October 15th, 2012 by Kevin Hannula

Kevin,
I have a 2010 Nitro Z7. When I tried to use the navigation lights for the first time they wouldn’t work.

I checked the fuses. The fuse box isn’t marked as to which fuse is for the lights, so I had check them all. The last fuse, a 5 amp, was blown. So I plugged another 5 amp fuse in and it immediately blew.

What is my problem?Nitro bass fishing boat

Please help

Dean

Hi Dean,

There is a short in the circuit that is causing the fuse to blow.

Trace the wire leaving the fuse panel. It should go from the fuse, to the switch, and to the device.

If the switch is not turned on, but the fuse still blows, the problem is between the switch and the fuse. If the fuse only blows when the switch is turned on, then the problem is between the switch and the device.

Hope this helps,

Posted in Accessory Harness, Boat Lighting, Boat Wiring, Circuit Protection, Ground issues, Marine Electrical, Navigation Lights | Comments Off

Bigger Better?

September 20th, 2012 by Kevin Hannula

Dear Kevin,

I have a Marinco 12-24/24-36 plug and receptacle installed on my boat for my trolling motor.

I have switched from a 24 volt system to a 36 volt system and noted that two of the four prongs on the male plug are larger than the other two. Marinco trolling motor plug

The trolling motor uses two wires (black and red) for power from the batteries. Should these wires be installed on the two larger prongs, since the 36 volt system will be drawing more current than the 24 volt system. The prongs are labled A+, B+, neg, and NET on the back of the plug.

Thank you for your time.

Arthur

Hi Arthur,

I would use the larger terminals in the plug for your new trolling motor. They have more contact area and will be less likely to get hot during heavy operation.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Thanks Kevin.

That was my thoughts. Nice to have your take.

Arthur

Posted in Batteries, Battery Management, Boat Battery Wiring, Boat Wiring, Jon Boats, Marine Electric, Marine Electrical, Marine Wiring, Panel Rewire, Pontoons, Power Boats, Trolling Motors, Voltage Drop | Comments Off

Bad Timing

September 20th, 2012 by Kevin Hannula

Kevin,

I am looking for an electrical wiring diagram schematic for 1996 Ebbtide Dynatrack 18.5 foot bass boat…can you assist?Livewell timer

The problem that I’m having is a livewell pump that I can’t shut off without shutting off entire panel.

Any ideas what the problem might be?

Thanks.

Josh

Hi Josh,

I’m sorry, but I do not have a schematic of your boat wiring. In general, boat wiring diagrams are notoriously hard to come by.

As for your problem…

My experience is that the livewell timer circuits go haywire and often cause the problem that you are having.

Your best bet will be to chase the power wire from the pump up to the boat’s switch panel to find the mystery hot wire that is causing the problem.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Posted in Accessory Harness, Boat Wiring, Jon Boats, Livewell Pump, Livewell Timer, Marine Electric, Marine Electrical, Marine Wiring, Panel Rewire, Pontoons, Power Boats | Comments Off

PVC Conduit

August 30th, 2012 by Kevin Hannula

Kevin,

My father and I have a 1987 Ranger Bass Boat and last summer the wiring traveling from the trolling motor battery to the front panel melted.

We were going to rerun the wire but it appears that the wire runs up into the foam that runs along the side of the boat. We thought we could feed it through but does not move.

Any recommendations?Ranger boat

Thank you,

Joey

Hi Joey,

I have seen several creative solutions, but none seem to work great.

Usually cramming a piece of 3/4″ PVC pipe with some teeth cut on the front edge through the foam is effective. It is not strong enough to cut anything but the foam.

Good luck,

Kevin

Posted in Accessory Harness, Boat Wiring, Marine Electric, Marine Electrical, Marine Wiring, Power Boats, Trolling Motors | Comments Off
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