Archive for the ‘Cruisers’ Category

Prevent Engine Flooding with a Fuel Demand Valve

This is the second in a series of new fuel product announcements from our associates at Attwood Marine. With so many of our readers using portable fuel tanks, we believed that it would be helpful to pass along this information.

Attwood has been serving the parts and accessory needs of the marine industry for more than 100 years. As a result of recent EPA regulations, they have developed innovative Portable Fuel Systems that are EPA compliant and designed with the customer in mind.


Have you had problems with your outboard engine flooding lately? If you’ve recently upgraded or replaced your portable fuel tank this year, chances are that that’s the cause. New EPA regulations control portable fuel tank emissions, and your fuel system may not have the proper equipment necessary to keep your engine from flooding.

EPA Regulations & Fuel Tanks

As of January 1, 2011, the EPA requires that all new portable marine fuel tanks follow a zero-emissions policy. To meet these new standards and regulations, fuel tanks can no longer be built as an “open” fuel system. Prior to the change, fuel tanks were manufactured with a fuel filler cap that vented and released gas vapor into the atmosphere. Now that portable fuel tanks must be fully sealed, the gas vapor is unable to vent and has nowhere to escape except to your engine through the fuel line. This builds up pressure within the fuel tank, and puts your engine at risk of flooding.

If you purchased a portable marine fuel tank that was built in 2011, it is likely a closed system and was manufactured to follow these regulations. However, the EPA is allowing all manufacturers and retailers to sell their remaining inventories of open portable fuel tanks. This means that even though you may have bought a portable fuel tank in 2011, it doesn’t necessarily follow the new EPA regulations.

If your portable fuel tank expands and contracts noticeably with changes in temperature, it is likely that you have a closed fuel system, and the pressure within the system may result in flooding your engine. Opening and closing the fuel tank filler cap releases pressure when refueling, but if you don’t refuel regularly, there is more risk of pressure building up in your tank and flooding the engine. It’s always a good practice to relieve pressure from your fuel tank prior to attaching it to your engine. That helps reduce the chance of any fuel spraying or dripping from the connector as you attach it to the engine.

Fuel Demand Valve

Fortunately, we have developed a product to help protect engines from fuel being forced in to the system causing flooding. New from Attwood is our Fuel Demand Valve (FDV). The FDV installs onto the fuel hose between the fuel tank and primer bulb, and prevents fuel from flowing unless there is demand from the engine. This eliminates excess fuel that would otherwise be forced through the fuel line due to pressure in the tank, and avoids the related flooding and engine failure.

The EPA-certified Attwood Fuel Demand Valve is compatible with all new fuel tanks, no matter the brand. The FDVs are available both individually and as part of Attwood’s fuel line assembly, which includes EPA-compliant hose, primer bulb, and the new Universal Sprayless Connector.

With proper usage of the new closed fuel tanks, not only are you helping your boat run smoothly and helping the environment, you are keeping the fuel where it belongs: in the tank. No one wants to deal with the headache or money loss of a flooded engine!

Portable Fuel & EPA Resources

By understanding how the new EPA regulations affect your fuel tank’s performance, you can take the necessary steps to keep your engine working properly. For more information on the new EPA regulations, the potential effects of compliance, and the products that keep you safe and your engine performing, visit the Portable Fuel & EPA Resources section of our website. Help the environment and help keep your fuel where you want it… in your tank!

Bow Thruster Breaker

Kevin,

I have a 1995 fishing boat and I’m installing a external Sideshift bow thruster.

My plan was to mount the motor control unit up in the bow area. I was going to use the existing power line from the windlass, which is 2/0 marine wire. Sideshift 340 bow thruster

I would then wire from the controller to a 105 amp breaker, and then connect back to the windlass. I would need to put a breaker in the engine room, near the boat batteries. I would use my starboard starting battery to run the thruster. It currently runs the windlass, but I was going to add another 1150 cca 12v group 31 battery in parallel.

My question is, Sideshift recommends a 550a breaker near the batteries, at the beginning of the run. Does this sound right? I haven’t been able to locate a breaker of that size anywhere.

Thanks

Edgar

Hi Edgar,

The SS340 has the ability to draw 550 amps. You will need circuit protection that is at least this large and it should be as close as possible to the battery connection. When you add this system, keep in mind that other components, like marine electrical battery switches, may not be rated for 550 amps.

I would recommend using an ANL type fuse instead of a circuit breaker. They are ignition protected and will be considerably less expensive than a 550 amp, ignition protection breaker.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Navigation Light Short

Hey Kevin,Attwood is the world's top manufacturer of navigation lights for marine electrical.

I just bought a 1987 Fisher bass boat with a 1989 110 hp Johnson outboard.

The boat navigation lights had been removed but the light wiring was still running up to the front of the boat. I bought a new Attwood LED navigation light and connected it (pretty sure I did it right) but the navigation light will not work. The white all round anchor light does work when I turn the switch to just anchor lighting and navigation lighting.

I followed the boat wiring for the lights and found that the negative wire was tied into the main negative wire going directly to the boat battery (this was connected). After those two wires meet, it appears the wiring coming from the two is supposed to be connected to a fuse but it was not.

There were two fuses open, a 20 amp and a 10 amp. As soon as I connected it to the 20 amp, the fuse blew. There was a spark when I connected it. I have no clue where to go from here.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Tommy

Hi Tommy,

It sounds like there is a short in your marine electrical between the fuse and the light.

You can either try to trace down the short or replace the wire. Sometimes it is much easier to replace marine wiring than to find the problem. Make sure to use circuit protection at the power source to protect the wire if a short happens again.

Happy wiring,

Kevin

Bot Buddies

Dear Kevin,

Last summer, I purchased a new aluminum fishing boat. It’s great, but I screwed up by “cheaping out” at the last minute. I passed on the trolling motor package and – as you’ve probably guessed – now want to add a trolling motor.

As a long time reader, I know that you are a big fan of Motorguide trolling motors and I’ll be buying one in the next couple weeks. My question concerns the boat wiring.

The Motorguide will be bow mounted, but since I didn’t get the trolling package, the only wire at the bow is a 16 gauge pair for the Attwood LED navigation light. But, according to your boat wiring size calculator, the trolling motor should be wired with 6 gauge.

Is there any way to make the smaller wire work? I hate to start rewiring a brand new boat if I can avoid it.

Thanks.

Sean

Hi Sean,

Since your boat is new, you may be in luck. A lot of boat builders now use Ancor’s new Nanotech Wire. As you’d guess from the name, it uses nanotechnology to solve problems just like yours.

Simply put, Nanotech Wire matches wire size to power demand by moving copper to where it is most needed – sort of a Viagra for marine electrical.

In the past, running a trolling motor on undersized wire caused voltage drops, heat buildup and embarrassing insurance claims. But now, that same temperature increase signals Nanotech Wire to deploy an army of nanobots who quickly rebuild the harness to match the power demand. While at work, these little guys make the wire looks like a python that swallowed a large rat.

Once your harness is properly sized, the same bots then go to work on its insulation so that it correctly corresponds to standard boat wiring colors.

The patented process is called Nanotech Overload Sensing Heat Induced Tranference and it works great. The only time I’ve seen it fail is when there are so many accessories turned on that there is no extra copper available. If this happens a lot, I usually recommend the addition of a copper reservoir to supply additional material as needed.

Have an excellent day.

Kevin

Nautical equivalent of “Old Sparky”

Hi Kevin,

I found your boat wiring website and would be grateful if you might comment on the following for installation of marine electrical systems in an aluminium hull boat. Its a complicated issue I know!

  • AC system includes generator, inverter and marine electrical shore power. The AC system is entirely floating,  i.e., no negative grounding and is interfaced with shore connections via an isolation transformer.
  • DC system includes house battery, engine alternator (isolated negative) and engine battery. All are grounded to one common negative pole on the hull. No other equipment is negative grounded.

I have been told that it would be better to float the DC system entirely as well (same as AC) so that there is no negative ground at all. Is this correct?Shock hazard

Thanks

Al

Hi Al,

Unless somebody went through and removed the AC/DC ground connection, it should still be intact and must remain. A boat without this connection is an extreme hazard. With an AC fault to the hull, there is no low resistance path back to ground to trip the breaker and the boat will turn into a very large electric chair.

On your boat generator, the AC ground and AC neutral are connected together on the metal engine block of the generator. The generator negative battery cable is also connected to the engine block and your DC negative system. An inventer will have the same AC neutral to AC ground connection. Your AC distribution panel should have a link between the AC ground (Green) and the DC negative on your boat.

Hull ground isolation is nearly impossible on an aluminum boat with an engine and unsafe on an aluminum boat with AC power. The engine and its underwater gear are inevitably electrically connected to the engine block and the DC negative. A positive hull connection to the DC negative gives a low resistance path back to AC ground and DC ground in the event of a fault. A DC fault to an un-grounded hull can create accelerated galvanic corrosion. The area with the positive cable connected to it will corrode to protect your engine and drive.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

GI Install

Hi Kevin,

I recently received one of the Easy Add AC Shore Power systems from your Boat Wiring Store.

The system looks great…perfect for my Whaler Outrage. But, prior to installation I have a couple of questions. I have a 30 amp Yandina galvanic isolator that I plan to install along with the shore power kit.

Could you give me some idea of how it should be wired? From what I have read on Yandina’s instructions the green wire (ground) on the panel should be connected to the isolator with the other lead from the isolator comnnected to the boat’s 12 volt ground….if so will any ground wire work or do you suggest a dedicated ground wire directly to the house battery?

Thanks beforehand for your assistance.Whaler 220 Outrage

Regards,

Greg

Hi Greg,

The best place to install a galvanic isolator is in the green wire between the ac shore power inlet and the ac panel. This will ensure that there are no alternate paths to dc ground thst can cause galvanic corrosion.

Cut the white jacking back on the shore power inlet where in the desired area. Cut the green wire and install the gi.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Big System. Little Boat.

Hi Kevin,

Could you please provide a boat wiring diagram utilizing the following on my 20’ boat with one outboard engine?

All of the batteries and accessories can be installed within three feet of each other at the stern. The trolling motor power needs to go to the bow.

I also would like to use one of the deep cycle batteries to supply 12v for accessories and or for emergency starting when the trolling motor is not being used.Motorguide builds the world's finest trolling motors for your boat wiring project

Right now the boat has just one battery and a Guest on-off battery switch. I have spent hours trying to find a diagram for this arrangement.

I would like to do this installation myself.

Chuck

Hi Doug,

You are not going to find a marine electrical system that does everything that you are asking for.

The closest you will probably come would be to wire your 24 volt trolling motor system as recommended by the manufacturer.

  • Connect the ground of the first battery in your 24 v system to the ground of your engine battery.
  • Connect an ON/OFF battery switch between the positives of your engine battery and the first battery in your 24v system.
  • When you turn the battery switch ON, you will be able to charge one of your trolling motor batteries. Turning the switch ON will also give you an emergency start option.
  • Connect your additional 12v items to the same, first trolling motor battery.
  • Use a battery charger similar to this one. Connect the 5 amp leg to your engine battery and the two 10 amp legs to each of your trolling motor batteries.

Batteries isolators require a common ground for all batteries being charged. The second battery in the 24v system uses the positive of first battery as it’s ground. If you want to keep the 24v system, you cannot charge the 3rd battery using an isolator.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Stumped Starting

Good Morning—

I have a 1987 Silverton 34C.

The boat wiring system I have has two engines, two battery switches, and four batteries. Two batteries are dedicated to starting either engine and the remaining two batteries are in parallel for the house.

I have a problem when trying to start the engines. Following is the boat wiring and switch information for the batteries:

  1.  Both boat battery switches are set to “1” normally for starting
  2. Parallel battery switch on boat is disabled
  3. One battery (through switch) is wired to port motor and one battery (thru second switch) is wired to starboard motor
  4. Silverton 3400

  5. Batteries three and four are paralleled (mechanically) and also run through the switches
  6. There is a battery charger hooked to the system that monitors the batteries and charges
  7. A Lewmar 700 windlass is connected to the house batteries
  8. All boat battery cable terminals and battery posts have been thoroughly cleaned and brushed
  9. Inspection of the two battery switches shows the connections to be completely clean

When I try to start the motors, the port motor is usually dead, but the starboard motor fires right up. When I go down and change both battery switches to “2” the port motor fires right up.

This weekend I tried switching the port side engine battery with one of the house batteries (thinking that maybe I had a bad starting battery on the port side) and the problem REVERSED itself!! With the battery switches on “1” , the port side motor fired right up, but then the starboard motor was completely dead—it wouldn’t even turn the motor over once!!!

I am stumped. Do you have any ideas? Do I need to re wire and/or add something to the marine electrical system?

If you need any more information please let me know.

Thanks in advance.

Have a great day,

Jake

HI Jake,

It sounds like a connection/cable problem to me. Even though all are clean, there may still be a problem.

Check battery voltages at the starters while you are trying to start them. A bad connection/cable may appear good until a load is added to it.

You will find your boat wiring problem,

Kevin

Reconnection

Hi Kevin,Our partner site, Boat Wiring Store, has custom built battery cables for your boat wiring project.

I am helping a friend that has a 93 Sylvan Pro Select w/Console and a Mercury 115.

He unhooked ALL the boat battery cable connections without tagging the wires…and now he doesn’t remember what went where.

Can you direct me to a boat wiring diagram for this?

Thank You,

Don

Hi Don,

Sorry for the delay. It took some time to contact a friend of mine from Smokercraft/Sylvan engineering to see if such a diagram exists. Unfortunately, it does not.

As a rule, they used black as ground, red as 12v power, and orange as 24v power.

I would recommend tracing each battery connection back to its source before connecting it to the battery to be safe.

Kevin

Two Into One

Hi Kevin,

I have a Guest Model 2620A battery charger. It is built with outputs for two batteries.

On my boat wiring, can I hookup the charger leads in parallel to charge a single battery?Guest battery charger

Thank you,

Ernest

Hi Ernest,

The Guest battery chargers are well known for their approach to multiple bank charging. The innovation that they offer is that a single charger will have several charging boards, each independent of the others. It makes for a much more flexible and reliable charger.

But, if you want to use a multi-bank Guest to charge one battery, yes you can. It will work great.

Kevin