Archive for the ‘Marine Wiring’ Category

Crestliner Wiring Upgrade

Kevin,

Could you please check out my homemade boat wiring diagram? It’s for my 17.5′ Crestliner Fish Hawk.

As you can see, I added and wired the two Attwood battery selector switches and a fourth battery to the system (Battery 2) and wired all the batteries in parallel. I also added the Blue Seas fuse block, all lighting, fishfinder, trolling motor, etc.

Crestliner boat wiring diagram

Click to Enlarge

My goal here is to be able to run the trolling motor off the extra battery if needed and/or to be able to start the motor with the extra battery if the main died. Also, to run all the lights off the extra battery for night fishing. I’ve yet to turn both switches to “both” because I’m not sure if that would be bad for……..everything.

I’m obviously an amateur at this so was wondering if you think it’s a safe setup assuming all the fuses, connections, wire gauge, etc. are kosher? I haven’t had any trouble yet but I’m a little nervous about burning something up.

I’d really appreciate your input if you can decipher the wiring diagram.

Thanks,

S.D.

Hi,

I would make a couple of minor changes:

  • Move the trolling motor circuit protection to the trolling motor side of the switch.
  • Add circuit protection for the Blue Seas fuse panel at its connection location to the boat battery switch.
  • Use the same size boat battery cables for all of your battery link wires. You call out 4/0 for the positive lead (I would assume you mean 4 AWG) but not on any of the other cables.
  • If the trolling motor batteries are near the bow of the boat I would consider adding circuit protection at each end of this wire to help reduce the risk of a catastrophic fault.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Kevin,

Thanks for the help Kevin. I’ll do all of that.

Also, I was wrong about the battery cable being 4/0, its actually 1/0 welding cable.
Thanks again,

S.D.

Hi,

Most people don’t use welding cable on boats or cars because it is not oil resistant.

Kevin

Engine Harness Search

boat wiring

Kevin,

Could you please tell me the best place to find an oddball boat wiring harness? I need one that will fit a Johnson 75elr78c engine from the red plug in the ignition switch?

Thank you for your help.

Hi Bill,

I’m sorry, but neither of our wiring sites have anything like this. If it were me, I would try ebasicpower.com.

Good luck,

Kevin

Bigger Better?

Dear Kevin,

I have a Marinco 12-24/24-36 plug and receptacle installed on my boat for my trolling motor.

I have switched from a 24 volt system to a 36 volt system and noted that two of the four prongs on the male plug are larger than the other two. Marinco trolling motor plug

The trolling motor uses two wires (black and red) for power from the batteries. Should these wires be installed on the two larger prongs, since the 36 volt system will be drawing more current than the 24 volt system. The prongs are labled A+, B+, neg, and NET on the back of the plug.

Thank you for your time.

Arthur

Hi Arthur,

I would use the larger terminals in the plug for your new trolling motor. They have more contact area and will be less likely to get hot during heavy operation.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Thanks Kevin.

That was my thoughts. Nice to have your take.

Arthur

Bad Timing

Kevin,

I am looking for an electrical wiring diagram schematic for 1996 Ebbtide Dynatrack 18.5 foot bass boat…can you assist?Livewell timer

The problem that I’m having is a livewell pump that I can’t shut off without shutting off entire panel.

Any ideas what the problem might be?

Thanks.

Josh

Hi Josh,

I’m sorry, but I do not have a schematic of your boat wiring. In general, boat wiring diagrams are notoriously hard to come by.

As for your problem…

My experience is that the livewell timer circuits go haywire and often cause the problem that you are having.

Your best bet will be to chase the power wire from the pump up to the boat’s switch panel to find the mystery hot wire that is causing the problem.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

PVC Conduit

Kevin,

My father and I have a 1987 Ranger Bass Boat and last summer the wiring traveling from the trolling motor battery to the front panel melted.

We were going to rerun the wire but it appears that the wire runs up into the foam that runs along the side of the boat. We thought we could feed it through but does not move.

Any recommendations?Ranger boat

Thank you,

Joey

Hi Joey,

I have seen several creative solutions, but none seem to work great.

Usually cramming a piece of 3/4″ PVC pipe with some teeth cut on the front edge through the foam is effective. It is not strong enough to cut anything but the foam.

Good luck,

Kevin

Reset Revival

Hi Kevin,

I screwed up my boat wiring and hope that you can help.

I have a 2004 Sylvan 18 I/O. I had to jump it the other day and in my hurry I hooked up the boat battery cables in reverse. Push to reset breaker

I have power to the bilge pump, boat horn and navigation lights, but the other side of the dash has no power at all. This includes starter switch, bilge blower, and radio. I checked the fuses but found none bad.

Did I miss a fuse down on the starter?

Thanks,

Maurice

Hi Maurice,

There is a push-to-reset circuit breaker on the engine that supplies power to the dash. It should be a red button about 3/8″ diameter on the stbd side of the engine near where the main engine harness plugs in.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Trim Trouble

Hi Kevin,

I have a boat which is a center console.

When I give the boat’s engine direct power, it starts and the tilt trim works. But, when I connect the battery to the terminals, it’s no good – it won’t even crank over nor will the tilt trim work.

I have tested the isolator switch with a multimeter and it seemed to be fine.

What else do you think I should do?Marine electrical trim panel

Thanks mate,

Ozzy

Hi Ozzy,

Test the switch and cables with the engine connected while you are trying to start it.

It is very common for cables and switches to read fine with a meter, but as soon as you draw current down them, there is too much resistance in the wire/switch and the engine will not start.

Since the meter draws a very small current, it not cause the huge voltage drop problem that you are seeing.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Hi Kevin

So do you think I should buy and try a new isolator switch?

Thanks

Ozzy,

I would test the voltage at the battery switch when you are trying to start the engine. It may be the boat battery cables.

Kevin

Bow to Stern?

Kevin:

I need some advice on the best battery configuration for my boat.

I have a 19 foot Blue Wave fishing boat with a Yamaha 115 and a 24-volt trolling motor. Currently, I have two dedicated trolling batteries mounted in front; cranking and all other accessories are handled by a single battery mounted in back. I also have an onboard marine battery charger mounted in front for the trolling batteries.Blue Wave 190

This setup works just fine, but I don’t like having the two trolling batteries and the charger in the front (space and weight distribution considerations). There is room for all three batteries in the back with a few minor adjustments.

So here are my questions:

  1. If I mount all three batteries in back, is it possible to set it up so that all three can charge from the alternator? And should I keep the configuration of two batteries for trolling and one for everything else, or do something different?
  2. Is there a simple and reliable way to do this with just two batteries?

Thanks

Jeff

Hi Jeff,

Moving the weight aft may not be the best solution. The additional 100+ pounds may cause the boat to be slower on plane and to porpoise at top speed. I would test the weight in the aft before making any wiring changes.

There are devices like the Guest/Marinco Charge PRO plus that allow the engine alternator to charge the 24v system while underway and charge all three while plugged in.

It is common to condense your marine electrical system down to two batteries.

  • Battery 1 is for the engine and all other 12v systems.
  • Battery 2 is connected in series with battery 1 (+ of 1 to – of 2) and the trolling motor 24v connection is made by connecting the negative to to Battery 1 (engine battery) and the positive to Battery 2.
  • You would be able to use your existing battery charge to charge both batteries, but the engine would only charge the starting battery while underway.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Backward Boat Wiring?

Hello Kevin,

I am trying to replace the white all-round navigation light on my fishing boat wiring.

My old light had two wires, blue and black which were connected to a black and gray on my boat. My new Attwood light has three wires. One black and 2 red labeled rear and aft. Attwood LED all round white navigation light

How do I wire this?

Thanks,

Tom

Hi Tom,

Connect the black to the black and both reds to the blue.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Kevin

I appreciate your quick response, but I tried that and it didn’t come on.

Tom

Hi Tom,

Is the new light one of the Attwood LED navigation lights?

Thanks

Kevin

Kevin

No, the package doesn’t designate it as led. It’s titled as “Anchor/Stern Light Combination.”

Tom

Hi Tom,

It may be polarity sensitive and your boat may be wired backwards.

Either check the black and blue on your boat with a meter or try hooking up the black on the light to the blue on the boat and the reds on the light to the black on the boat.

Kevin

Aerator Pump Replacement

Hi Kevin,

I have a 1993 Bass Tracker TX17 that has a non-functioning Attwood 4240 aerator pump.

Will Attwood’s A500 Tsunami work as a direct replacement for my boat? Will I need any other parts to replace?

Thank you for your time.Bass boat

Tom

Hi Tom,

Some of the earlier A500 aerators had a barb fitting instead of a threaded fitting like on the Tsunami.

If the barb is permanently attached to your pump, then you will need to buy a fitting like this to make the connection.

The pickup tube assembly outside diameters are the same on both pumps.

Hope this helps,

Kevin