Could you please check out my homemade boat wiring diagram? It’s for my 17.5′ Crestliner Fish Hawk.
As you can see, I added and wired the two Attwood battery selector switches and a fourth battery to the system (Battery 2) and wired all the batteries in parallel. I also added the Blue Seas fuse block, all lighting, fishfinder, trolling motor, etc.
My goal here is to be able to run the trolling motor off the extra battery if needed and/or to be able to start the motor with the extra battery if the main died. Also, to run all the lights off the extra battery for night fishing. I’ve yet to turn both switches to “both” because I’m not sure if that would be bad for……..everything.
I’m obviously an amateur at this so was wondering if you think it’s a safe setup assuming all the fuses, connections, wire gauge, etc. are kosher? I haven’t had any trouble yet but I’m a little nervous about burning something up.
I’d really appreciate your input if you can decipher the wiring diagram.
I would make a couple of minor changes:
- Move the trolling motor circuit protection to the trolling motor side of the switch.
- Add circuit protection for the Blue Seas fuse panel at its connection location to the boat battery switch.
- Use the same size boat battery cables for all of your battery link wires. You call out 4/0 for the positive lead (I would assume you mean 4 AWG) but not on any of the other cables.
- If the trolling motor batteries are near the bow of the boat I would consider adding circuit protection at each end of this wire to help reduce the risk of a catastrophic fault.
Hope this helps,
Thanks for the help Kevin. I’ll do all of that.
Also, I was wrong about the battery cable being 4/0, its actually 1/0 welding cable.
Most people don’t use welding cable on boats or cars because it is not oil resistant.